31 Jul 2023 - Arrived at Monument Valley - The Path that Forrest Gump Took!!

 

Only 154 pictures today on this journey!!!  The number of pictures is directly proportional to the total awesomeness of the travels.  I remember back to 1969 when my parents took me on a classic road trip, not unlike Clark W. Griswold's trip to Wally World.  I was 13 years old.  Our vehicle was not a Ford Country Squire station wagon like Clark W. Griswold's, although we did previously own one.  We rocked on down the road with a white 1969 Plymouth Fury II with a 440 cubic inch police interceptor engine.  Yes we had my grandmother with us.  Yes we were headed to California.  Yes we dropped off my grandmother in Scottsdale AZ (she survived the trip)!  I don't remember a hot blond (Christie Brinkley) in a Ferrari 308GTSi but other than that there were many similarities!!  So in preparation for that trip, I bought, with my own lawn mowing money,  a brand new Kodak Instamatic 134 camera.  

I cannot imagine what 154 pictures would have cost back in 1969 using that Instamatic 134, figuring the 126 cartridges were either 12 or 20 exposure.  So you have the cost to purchase the film, then the cost to develop the film.  And now we just click, click, click on our iPhone 12 Pro Max with it's triple-lens camera system with a 12 MP wide lens, a 12 MP telephoto lens, and a 12 MP ultra wide lens.  So 154 pictures later, here I am trying to sort out what to present to you.  In the middle of all this we had a several hour power failure here in Monument Valley as a nasty storm rolled through.  

OK, enough of that.  We rolled out of Mesa Verde RV Park this morning at 0928 hrs which is later for us, but we had rain last night and I did not get the tanks dumped, hoses stowed etc until this morning.  Also, our total journey today was only supposed to be about 130 miles, and we could not check in here at Monument Valley KOA until 1300 hrs, so we had time to kill.

Very overcast today which obscured the view

In my research and trip planning, our journey between Mesa Verde and Monument Valley was going to take us scaringly close to the Four Corners Monument, so we had to make that stop in route, which is a bit unusual for us.  It is most times difficult to stop at sights and venues on our travel days when we are towing our trailer due to it's size and our overall length with the truck and difficult maneuvering them.  But Four Corners Monument had ample parking for large vehicles, so we decided to make it so.

The significance of the Four Corners Monument is this is the only place in the United States where four state corners intersect - Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona!

It was only about an hour and we were at the Four Corners Monument.  We parked and headed to the monument. 

I did not realize how controversial the location of the monument is.  Apparently the original location of the stone shaft marker was 2-1/2 miles from the actual spot.  This monument is about 1800 ft from the exact spot, but all four states have accepted this marker as accurate.  The monument was most recently updated in 2010.

Doreen and all four states.

All around the outside are booths which native American items for sale such as jewelry, pottery, etc.  Doreen picked up a couple items and then we were back on our way.

The drive from the Four Corners to Monument Valley was in some areas very flat and desert-like.  In other areas the rocky landscape and "monuments" were awesome.  A few pictures:

I had noted during my planning this iconic stretch of highway.  See if you can remember it!

Our picture of this site today.

In the 1994 movie Forrest Gump, Tom Hanks stopped running here at mile post 13

So that was pretty cool!  And so was the terrain as we drove through a portion of Monument Valley.  

Are we being flipped off here?

At 1302 hrs we arrived at the Monument Valley KOA campground and got setup quickly.  It is a baron landscape here.  Not so much as a blade of grass for Liberty to pottie on, but she is getting this "peeing on the rocks" thing down pat!  

The campground filled up as the day went on, and then the weather turned bad.  The wind picked up, the rain arrived and the power went out.  Eventually the power came back on but even after that this landscape made for some amazing lightning shows!  Internet connectivity is bad here, so I could not upload any video.  

Tomorrow we will head to Kayenta AZ to get our rock chip fixed and then to the Navajo Code Talkers Exhibition.  We are only here for three nights, and we have not sorted out the remaining time.  Likely it will involve enjoying the scenery and beauty of Monument Valley!

30 Jul 2023 - Cliff Palace Hiking Tour; Last Day at Mesa Verde

 

Last night some clouds rolled through and the sun setting in the west shown on the nearby mountains.  What a beautiful area.  We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay here, near the entrance of Mesa Verde National Park, but tomorrow morning we depart for points south and west..  

Today we traveled back into Mesa Verde National Park one last time to do the Cliff Palace hiking tour.  This is one of three ranger-led tours here at the park that require tickets in advance. 

As I mentioned previously, the National Park Service started using timed entry and timed tickets available online at www.recreation.gov back in 2020 to help regulate the massive influx of visitors as a result primarily of COVID.  The park here does not require timed entry to get in but three of the ranger-led hikes do.  So the only pair of tickets I could get were for the Cliff Palace, today at 1330 hrs.

A covered waiting area for the tour

Because of the road construction experiences earlier in the week we allowed extra time to make sure we arrived at the rally point for the Cliff Palace tour 15 minutes in advance as they required.  Well thankfully the road construction crews were not working today, so we arrived a bit early. 

As we hung out it the covered waiting area the hikers poured in and gathered near the ranger.  Wow, these folks are really early so we figured we better get down there, right?!.  It was about 1250 hrs and the ranger started his briefing and that is when we learned these folks were here for the 1300 hrs tour, not our tour which was 1330 hrs! 

The tour waiting area taken a couple days ago.

A great view of Palace Cliff dwellings from the tour waiting area

 Bottom line is we waiting until everyone headed down the stone steps and then asked the ranger if it would be any problem is we tagged along with the 1300 hrs group and he said no problem,  Great!  So away we go!

The route down is a combination of metal stairs, stone steps and hard surface walkway.  It was not too bad

This first portion of the hike actually takes you slightly below the Palace Cliff area and then you have to climb back up one of several ladders.  

Looking up on a portion of the cliff dwellings

The first ladder and Doreen navigated it like a champ!

The group listening to the ranger's briefing.  

Was glad we had an upper vantage point near the back of the group

It is amazing to think that 800 years ago these dwellings were bustling with activity.

The ancestorial Pueblo people moved here in 1200 AD

These areas were discovered by cowboys in the 1880's as they herded cattle above.

These two pictures show upper storage areas used for bulk storage of surplus grains, etc

This discoloration is from smoke, likely from cooking.

These structures are called kivas which are a partially subterranean rooms 

where ceremonies and gathering were held.  

This kiva had a place for a fire in the center.  Openings were created for inbound airflow and then the warmer air was channeled through shafts to heat other areas.  

The Cliff Palace area contains about 150 rooms including 75 open living areas, storage  rooms and 21 kivas.  Approximately 100-120 Pueblo people lived here.

In 1300 AD most of the Pueblos had moved on, due to a long draught. Water sources had dried up and crops shrunk.  There is evidence of this as they analyzed the tree rings.  Whatever the combination of environmental and social stresses were that led them to leave the area they took with them their traditions, skills and artistic abilities.  The evidence shows their decedents are the modern Pueblo people of the Hopi villages of northern Arizona and other Pueblo people of New Mexico.  That is why Cliff Palace and other areas here are special places to their people.  

It is amazing to think how these structures were all created by hand with simple tools

A different ranger answering questions and explaining the features.

We finished our exploring here and one by one the hikers headed towards the exit.  Soon there would be another group at our heels.  The exit pathway was, again, a combination of stone steps and ladders.  What made the climbs and descents more difficult was there was no consistency to the step heights.  Some were very tall steps.  

Some of the pathways were very narrow and without handrails, 

other than natural handholds in the stone.

These are really tall steps!

The end is in sight!

We took a water break at the top for a few minutes and then made our way back to the truck.  We continued on around the Cliff Palace Loop towards the exit, but stopped at the Mesa Verde Soda Point where native Americans offered hand made jewelry, pottery, and food, specifically what they call 'frybread'.  

As we parked we noticed a rescue squad and several park rangers tending to a young lady who had taken a tumble, twisting her ankle. It would be a long ride to the nearest treatment facility from here.  

Doreen looked over the jewelry buy did not buy any.  There were necklaces, bracelets, ear rings and hair clips.

Before we left we stopped by where they were cooking the frybread and a large group had gathered there! Fry Bread is a Native American Bread that has been carried down from generation to generation and made with simple ingredients of flour, water, salt, and a little hot water.  Some add baking soda, milk and vegetable oil.  

They fry light and fluffy.  

The frybreads start as a palm-sized dough ball which is flattened and then fried.  They are then seasoned with powdered sugar and honey, or salt and optional garlic salt.  We got one of each!

Powdered sugar and honey topping

Lightly salted and garlic flavor

They were really good, but we saved half for later.  The drive out of the park was uneventful and we got back to the campground to start our preparations for departure. I headed 9 miles west into Cortez to fuel the truck.  Doreen started in on the RV.  Later we gave the coach a bath about the same time the rain came.

Tomorrow we we head west through Cortez and then south follow US 160 down to the Four Corners Monument - the place where Colorado, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico come together.  Then we head north and west to the Monument Valley area which is our next stay.